by Scott Plath

While considering the oh-so-many downtown Lowell options for a dinner date, my eldest daughter and I chose 1981 Ramen Bar.  She, a top-tier restaurant selector, preferred a youthful vibe and vegetarian options—as I concurred, partial to the convivial owner who visits tables with stories and sample tastes of soju wine—the night proving to be an intimate but dynamic ‘warm and fuzzy’ party, as back drop to my noodle-slurping and perfectly roasted and seasoned pork belly.

Good restaurants inspire feelings.  Be it fun, or special, a safe haven or a social oasis, a beacon of community or a cultural pearl …the feel good. More than a sustenance convenience with someone to wash your dishes—as nice as those things are; I personally seek energy, uniqueness and perhaps most of all, discovery.  And when treasure-seeking in Lowell, the A-B-C’s of origin abound! (American, Brazilian, Cambodian…)

That night at the ramen bar reminded me of walking into Ippudo in midtown Manhattan once upon the ‘before times,’ where the diminutive, kimono-wearing hostess asked us to please wait in the small, dark lobby.  Once other parties had arrived and assembled, she choreographed our dining room-entrance before leading us all through a curtain to a sudden staff-wide and raucous chorus of; “YO’koso!!” Startled and amused, we then sat, as the chefs and servers returned to business.  Their enthusiastic “welcome!” was great restaurant theater.  Ippudo promotes: “Tonkatsu ramen from the heart of Fukoka.” They won mine.  Tonkatsu from Fukoka?!  Sign me up every time.

Having actually moved from New York to Lowell, where we soon opened our first restaurant, Cobblestones of Lowell in 1994, our intent back then (beyond remaining employed!), was to drive some of the above-mentioned ethos. And yet, on multiple menu versions for many years, we failed to gain any traction on the then-exotic blended mixture of chickpeas, tahini, olive oil, garlic and lemon.  Hummus!  Lowell wasn’t yet ready.  And what a difference 28 years makes.  Cameroonian, Dominican, Egyptian, French…

Today, Lowell rivals most places I have ever been for culinary diversity.  Argentinian, Colombian, Puerto Rican and Portuguese…

Those recent sips of soju reminded me of another night in New York City—my go to for “research”— where I first discovered this clear, Korean spirit and learned quite accidently that it is way stronger than Japanese sake. Whoa. Five half-bottles later with my brother and cousin, this fact became evident after dinner on the streets of Manhattan as we proceeded to group-hugging and singing the theme song from The Flintstones at the top of our lungs. Clearly-not-so-clearly it had become yabba-dabba-doo time. #hotmess

Although Lowell may not have an izakaya spot, yet: Cajun, Mexican, Indian…

As you may know by my last column for Inside Lowell, ‘Channeling Mr. Mo’, I have Greek restaurant roots. I wrote about Aphrodite, the restaurant where I received my inspiration to pursue a hospitality career and where the owners would regularly begin playing music in the dining room plucking and strumming on their bouzoukis.  While customers danced the sirtaki, or smiled through their ‘tarama,’ moussaka, and baklava, the head waiter Demetri would yell, “Opa!!” while smashing bread plates on the dance floor—as the owners cringed.  What a celebration…and on a Thursday night!

The magical power of restaurants to transport us back to past places and times affects me every single time that I enjoy the delicious authenticity of Lowell’s Athenian Corner, Olympus Bakery or The Olympia.

Chinese, Japanese, Irish, Laotian, Thai, Vietnamese….

Aside from those Greek institutions back in the day, and perhaps the Prince Grotto and Tatsios’, Lowell embodied its fair share of diners and dives, way before TV homage.  And now?  From phyllo to pho and up and down the alphabet—Asopao, bhan mi and bibimbad, coq au vin, dumplings, empanadas, feijoada, gyros, hoisin …the list of available and delicious cultural delicacies is endless, three dozen varied cuisine destinations by my last estimation and not counting the same heritage twice!  A melting pot if there ever was one in a city with an incredibly rich history of immigrant contribution and pride.

Until maybe, I eventually write the DTL Foodie’s Map and Glossary as perhaps a gift to share during seasonal celebrations, I humbly recommend global flavors and traditions in the form of gift certificates for loved ones this holiday season, thankful for our bounty of opportunity while further enriching our local economy… a win-win!  Indeed, there’s a lot to eat about Lowell.

Slainte, salud, cheers and happy holidays to all  -SPlath  www.splath.com

Scott Plath and his wife Kathy own the Stones Hospitality Group (Cobblestones, Moonstones and Stones Social in Nashua NH) and Scott was a columnist for 14 years at Merrimack Valley Magazine